My Lovely Cat Photoframe Sergio Lanna

GETTING STARTED:
I made this photoframe for my little cat Minou.

The project includes both the version made of wood by laser cutting machine (with 3D printing of only the fasteners on the back cover) and the whole version printed in 3D with sliding insertable backside.

Later I made two other versions (changing only the names) for the kitten of a couple of my friends (Sibilla) and my daughter-in-law's kitten (Harry Potter).

Photoframe dimension 198x250x11 mm
Photo zone dimension 100x150 mm.

FILES:

• The .gcode files for 3d printing are in .txt format, you have to download the files in .txt format and rename them .gcode.
• The .ngc files for laser cutting are in .txt format and, after downloading them, you have to rename them.ngc.
• The .jpg files for laser engraving are in .txt format and, after downloading them, you have to rename them .jpg.

The print settings are for a Mendel i3 clone printout with nozzle 0.4, resolution 0.2, PLA material (nozzle temperature 215 ° C and print bed 50 ° C).

WOOD OR PLA?
In the 3D printed version the compartment is closed by a sliding door in a guide made in the frame that includes the support rod while in the wooden version it is a rectangular piece of wood to which the supporting rod is attached through a small zipper, the latter fastened by nails topped with a hammer on the opposite side of the hinge (see photo).

In the wooden version, since my laser cutting machine is working at a maximum of 18x24 cm, I have reduced the original dimensions directly in the cutting/engraving software 3 times obtaining a final dimension of 110x138x1.1 mm and a photo compartment of 55x82 mm

Alternatively you can make the front of wood and the back printed in 3d.
In this case you will have to use the Backframe.stl, Coverback.stl and Backstand.stl files to print the back parts

IMPORTANT NOTICE FOR THE 3D PRINTED VERSION:
With my 3D printer, having 220x270 printing bed and self-leveling sensor, I had the following problem:
At the time of printing, through separate gcode, of the second level, the self-leveling sensor touched the surface of the first level. To overcome this problem there are various methods:

1. Scale and reduce the size of the layers in the stl files (same scale for both)
2. Print in one color both levels with a single stl file
3. Print in two colors with a single stl file and use a "filament change" when it starts printing the second level to change the color
4. Print the two stl files of the separate layers and then merge the two layers using glue.

The last method is the best because it allows you to print the first level upside down so as to get a better print of the inner side that has oblique and other staggered points.

HOW DO YOU DO THIS:

Materials:For Wood version I used 4 mm plywood light colored that on one side I colored with dark walnut color.

In the 3D printed version I used PLA white and black and two gcode files for print two color level separately.

PROCEDURE:
With the laser cutting machine I cut two identical frames but with a small difference on one, which will act as the back, with the compartment for the larger photo so as to contain the photograph.

I will use the cut part of this larger compartment later for the back cover while the cut part of the smaller compartment after having divided it in half along the longer side, I will use it for the support splint.

So I cut the kitten's profile and the name's name.

Engraving of the footsteps:
On the front frame (the one with the smaller photo frame) I make some incisions with the laser engraving machine of cat prints. If you prefer you ca do this morre later.

Gluing of the two faces:
At this point the two sides of the frames are glued. (the engraving of the footsteps can also be done after this passage).

Decoration:
Now the decorative parts must be glued, that is the profile of the kitten and the letters that make up the kitten's name.

These parts should be cut from the dark walnut stained side so as to stand out on the front of the light wooden frame.
I you want you can engraving footstep or other draw now.

COVERBACK:
Now I take the advanced rectangle from the cut of the rear frame and install the support batten by means of a small hinge.

To fix the hinge, I used small nails with a head that however protrude beyond the thickness of the plywood of 4mm for this reason I replied them bending them with the hammer.

The hinge must be fastened first on the cover directly with the hammer, then mark the points of the hole on the support batten, make small holes, insert the pegs thoroughly and retighten them as done for the lid.

Printing the lock-lid tabs (Clips):
With the 3D printer mold the tabs (clips.stl) that I will apply in the appropriate points of the back through very short screws that will serve to block closed the back cover of the photo.

Signs:
So I engrave the name of the photo frame and my logo .

And here it is done!

ITALIANO:
Ho realizzato questa cornice portafotografia per la mia gattina Minou.

LEGNO O PLA?
Il progetto prevede sia la versione realizzata in legno tramite tagliatrice laser (con stampa 3d dei soli fermi del coperchio posteriore) sia la versione tutta stampata in 3d con retro inseribile a incastro scorrevole.

Successivamente ho realizzato altre due versioni (cambiando solo i nomi) per la gattina di una coppia di amici (Sibilla) e il gattino di mia nuora (Harry Potter).

Dimensioni Cornice 250x198x1,1 cm
Dimensioni della zona foto 10x15 cm.

Nella versione stampata in 3d il vano è chiuso da uno sportello scorrevole in una guida ricavata nella cornice che comprende l'asta di appoggio mentre nella versione in legno è un pezzo di legno rettangolare a parte a cui va attaccata l'astina di appoggio tramite una piccola cerniera, quest'ultima fissata da chiodini a testa ribattutti con martello dal lato opposto della cerniera (vedi foto).

Nella versione in legno, poiché la mia tagliatrice laser ha un'area di lavoro massima di 18x24 cm circa, ho ridotto le dimensioni originali direttamente nel software di taglio/incisione di 3 volte ottenendo una dimensione finale di 110x138x1,1 mm e vano foto di 55x82 mm.

In alternativa puoi fare la parte frontale di legno e il retro stampato in 3d.
In tal caso dovrai usare i files Backframe.stl Coverback.stl e Backstand.stl per stampare le parti del retro

FILES:

• I file .gcode per la stampa 3d sono in formato .txt, tu devi scaricare i file in formato .txt e rinominarli .gcode.
• I file .ngc per il taglio laser sono in formato .txt e, dopo averli scaricati devi rinominarli.ngc.
• I file .jpg per le incisioni laser sono in formato .txt e, dopo averli scaricati devi rinominarli .jpg.

Le impostazioni di stampa sono per una stampante clone prusa Mendel i3 con ugello 0.4, risoluzione 0.2, materiale PLA (temperatura ugello 215 °C e letto di stampa 50 °C).

COME REALIZZARE QUESTO PROGETTO:

Materiali:
Per la versione in legno ho usato legno compensato da 4mm di colore chiaro che da un lato ho colorato con tinta colore noce scuro.

Nella versione stampata in 3D ho usato PLA bianco e nero e due file gcode per stampare separatamente due livelli di colore.

AVVISO IMPORTANTE PER LA VERSIONE STAMPATA IN 3D:
Con la mia stampante 3d, avente letto di stampa 220x270 e sensore autolivellamento, ho avuto il seguente problema:
Al momento della stampa, tramite gcode separati, del secondo livello il sensore autolivellamento andava a toccare sulla superficie del primo livello.Per ovviare a tale problema ci sono vari metodi:

1. Scala e riduci le dimensioni dei livelli nei file stl (stessa scala per entrambi)
2. Stampa in unico colore entrambi i livelli con un unico file stl
3. Stampa in due colori con un unico file stl e usa un "cambio filamento" quando inizia a stampare il secondo livello per cambiare il colore
4. Stampa i due file stl dei livelli separati e poi unisci i due livelli tramite colla.

L'ultimo metodo è il migliore perché permette di stampare il primo livello a rovescio così da ottenere una stampa migliore del lato interno che ha dei punti obliqui e altri sfalsati